Its been six weeks now since I have been in Brazil. Hard to believe! Time really does just keep moving faster and faster. And although I do sit here and miss home and SLU I have to remind myself that this chunk of time is something very special and truly unique. Once I get back to the U.S. I have one more year of being in my all-expenses-paid-resort, also known as college (thanks Mom and Dad), and then BAM its the real world. I'm not saying that I will stop traveling but doing another exchange like this? Who knows.
Something I realized while living in Barcelona and then have come to realize more being here in São Paulo is that you really have to fend for yourself out there. People are not going to hold your hand and guide you along. It's fine. I'm okay with it. It just takes some readjusting. I am happy to be getting little tastes of this reality during my four years at SLU so that it doesn't all take me by surprise after I graduate (eek). Its like this Fall, my parents got a feel for what it will be like to be empty nesters. My sister Jane and I went off to college and our youngest sister, Adelaide, studied abroad in Argentina for six months. Mom and Dad were left at home alone and surprisingly did not move into separate bedrooms. Our dogs, Dwight and Riley, became the new centers of attention and I was impressed with how well my parents managed. In fact, Mom and Dad had such a surplus of attention to give with their three princesses gone, that when Dwight ate a dead deer behind our house and got very sick, Mom hand fed him chicken noodle soup. She saved little Dwighty Boy's life along with her marriage since for those of you who don't know my dad, spending $2,000 to bring a pet to the vet is what he would call a NDE (Near Divorce Experience). So needless to say, I think they will do well once Adelaide moves out for good, just as I will conquer what ever I decide to pursue after I graduate.
Now that Carnaval is over, the real new year begins in Brazil. School starts, work picks back up and people's daily routines are underway. My intensive Portuguese class has ended and my regular university classes in the FAAP have begun! This semester I will be taking four classes all in Portuguese that include: International Finance, International Economics, The Brazilian Financial Market and The Formation of Latin America's Economy. This is a relatively light course load compared to other Brazilian students who normally take 8-10 classes per semester. But my advisor here suggested that with my internship (starting either this week or next), four classes will be plenty, and after my first week, I completely agree.
So what are my first impressions of these classes? 1. Extremely interesting and 2. Very well taught. I have one male professor and three female professors which I think will be great. I have yet to have a female economics professor. I would also like to comment on how well prepared I feel for these courses from my studies at SLU in economics, history, politics and well just about everything else. During my first week, it was a relief to not only follow the whole lecture in Portuguese but to also be able to comment and answer questions using previous knowledge that I learned in my semesters back at SLU. So if you are one of my SLU professors reading this, give yourself a pat on the back from me! Class size is small which is great: about 15-20 students. Kids participate and seem generally interested. All class notes are posted on an academic site for all of us to refer to afterwards which will be super helpful for me when needing to fill in what ever gaps I may have missed. So we are off to a great start folks! Side note: come mid semester with mid terms and papers, I may take all of this back.
Other than classes what else have I been up too? Well, on Monday I attended my first cervejada. What is this you ask? Oh, its just a University sponsored kegger for all new and returning students. Talk about incentives! Go to class or a kegger? Hmm. The still-developing, college student brain chooses kegger! They didn't even charge an entrance fee. All you had to do was bring a bag of powered milk that then would be donated to charity. Brilliance. And the beer selection? Budweiser! Here is a picture from the party of us exchange students. Needless to say, the afternoon/night was a success! Yes Adelaide, those are your shorts, and your shoes, and your bag. Thanks.
One of my favorite things about Brazil are the weekly farmers markets. Every neighborhood has its farmers market where everyone goes to buy fruits, vegetables, meat, fish, spices, etc. Its great because all the food is super fresh and VERY cheap. Our farmers market happens every Thursday and this week was my second time going to purchase our weeks supply of fruits and veggies. You can hear the commotion from the market as you approach starting from about two blocks away. Upon arriving, you are hit with a tidal wave of vendors wooing you with their very scrumptious products. Everyone wants to be your best friend at the market if it means you'll buy their lemons, or mangos, or papayas, or star fruit. It is hard not to get lured in, especially when you are new to how the whole system works. While standing in front of a massive row of grapes trying to decide which ones to buy, I am approached by a man holding a spectacular looking piece of neon orange mystery fruit. The conversation goes as follows (Please note the sweet talk is all part of the act. Also, when hearing sweet talk in Portuguese it makes your ears melt):
Fruit man: Hello my love, how can I help you?
Elley: Oh I'm just going to get some grapes, thank you.
Fruit man: You are so beautiful, here try a piece of this fruit. (before responding he cuts a generous sliver of the mystery and hands it to me. I try it and my knees just about give out with how delicious it is)
Elley: Wow thats so good. What is it?
Fruit Man: You have beautiful eyes. Here now sample this apricot. (he watches my eyes light up as my palate just about explodes with exquisite sensory overload. He knows I am hooked). My beauty, you must try this strawberry. Do you have a Brazilian boyfriend? Let me take you out dancing. But first my love, try these cherries. Oh, how your eyes light up in the sun. Are they real? Eat a piece of papaya, my queen. You said you needed grapes?
Ever bite he offers is more succulent than the last. Before I know it I am standing their holding more bags than my arms can carry, of fruit that I don't even know the name of nor even know existed, as the the Fruit man continues to offer me more samples of his proudest produce, while showering me with his skillful Brazilian banter.
Making my way up the street I approach a scene that you would most likely see on a travel food network. You know one of those television programs that makes you want to drop everything you are doing to go and try what ever is being featured on that days show. Today's special: something so classic here in Brazil: A Pastel stand. A red pop up tent covers a massive eating frenzy as people yell out their orders and hoover down the Brazilian specialty. The smell lures me into join the chaos as I squeeze myself into the group lining the counter waiting, and eating. Its mid day and this is clearly where people come for their lunch break. I look over at the bubbling oil in the massive steal frying pan as the pastels sizzle and pop. The smell is a mixture of garlic, sauteed onions, seafood, sugar, fried dough, minced meat and sweat. The list of overwhelming choices hangs overhead: shrimp, chicken, beef, beef and cheese, chicken and cheese, shrimp with some weird thing thing I can't pronounce, random parts of a cow all mixed together, that again but with cheese, nutella, nutella and banana. Going to the market is really a excellent vocabulary review. Disregarding the fact that I had just eaten I decide I want to purchase this delicacy for a mear 3 reals (about a $1.50). Side note: part of being a foodie is not eating when hungry but eating when ever you encounter something enticing. If this happens to be every 25 minutes, so be it.
Unsure of which one to chose, I look around me to see what the locals are inhaling. I keep hearing the lady behind the counter yell out "
camarão, camarão." Okay this means shrimp. That seems like the most popular. I'll get a shrimp one then. But then the guy next to me bites into his steaming pastel breaking the crunchy dough to expose a medley of minced meat, cheese, onions, tomatoes and garlic. My tummy rumbles. It knows. After a quick inner battle I decide that the best thing to do is to get two pastels in order to really take advantage of this experience. When in Rome, right? "
Mosa, mosa" I call out to get the lady's attention. Within minutes I am standing there holding my two fresh pastels wrapped in wax paper to keep in the heat. Following what I see around me, I tear back the paper to bite into the perfection. The crisp dough crunches and the savory shrimp is well, heavenly. The freshness is overwhelming but also the flavor is just indescribable with its mixture of different spices. Its one of those flavors that with every new bite, you discover a different taste. It also seemed to get exceedingly more mouth-watering as I ate it. Despite its impressive size, I finish my shrimp pastel in a matter of two minutes. Actually probably less. Without waiting for my stomach to tell my brain that it was now full, I bite into my second meat and cheese pastel. I first noticed the surprising taste of sun-dried tomatoes within the hodgepodge of wonderfulness. It caught me off guard, but was totally brilliant. The bittersweet, chewiness was the perfect accompaniment to the other salty ingredients.
The whole pastel extravaganza lasted about 7 minutes. There is no lingering once you are finished. You eat and then you move, before someone else, moves you. To quench my thirst I turn around to yet another magnificent scene: pudgy Brazilian women blending and mixing any fresh juice you want. I order my usual Maracujá juice assuming that I know what is coming. I watch as she takes the fresh juice out of the fridge and pours a splash into my glass. She then reaches for another pitcher of a suspicious mixture to fill the rest of the cup. Handing me the concoction, I smile to pretend I know what I have just purchased. Putting my lips on the rim of the cup, I take my first sip of the mystery beverage. Let me tell you people, I think at this point I actually had an out of body experience. I don't know if it was the combination of the Fruit Man, the pastels and then this juice but I could barley stay upright. This mystical potion was pure mother nature. Something that they would serve to you upon arriving in a biblical paradise. Aphrodite's beverage of choice, for sure. Its almost as if every sip rejuvenates your body. Where on earth did it come from? I make out some of the tastes: fresh coconut water, a hint of ginger, Maracujá. But there is something else. Something so magnificently sweet, but not from sugar. I thought about turning around to ask the woman what was in this enchanting drink, but I decided I would keep it a mystery.
I walk down the opposite side of the market in a gastronomic daze, barley able to pry my lips from the straw. The bags of fruits and vegetables no longer feel heavy and the blazing sun no longer feels hot. I feel satisfied and accomplished after such a triumphant and tasty market adventure.
I don't have the best pictures but I did manage to get a few. Most importantly here are some of the pastels. The red is the reflection from the roof of the tent.
Here you can see the steel frying pan that is used to cook the pastels.
Some of the flavors.
I tried to capture the eating frenzy. This picture does not really do it justice.
Alface
Uvas
Manga e abacate
Temperos e ervas
Bananas
You didn't think I was going to leave without telling you what the mystery fruit was did you? After typing"neon orange fruit that looks like a tomato" into Google it has been determined that this is a Persimmon. A very common fruit here in Brazil. I eat one now every day for breakfast amongst my fruit medley of papaya and banana all mixed together in yummy Greek yogurt.
Some of my purchases at the market! All exquisite.
Thanks for reading everyone! More coming soon!